The 5-Point Bra Fit Check
A properly fitting bra should pass all five of these checks. If it fails even one, the fit isn't right.
1. The Band
The band should sit level all the way around your body — parallel to the floor. It should be snug on the loosest hook (so you have room to tighten as it stretches). You should be able to fit two fingers under the band, but no more.
If the band rides up in the back, it's too loose. Try going down a band size. If it digs in painfully, try going up a band size.
2. The Center Gore
The center gore (the piece between the cups) should lie flat against your sternum. If it lifts away from your body, the cups are too small. This is one of the most common fit issues and usually means you need to go up a cup size.
3. The Cups
The cups should fully contain your breast tissue without spillage over the top, sides, or bottom. There should be no wrinkling or gapping in the cups.
If you see spillage (the "double boob" effect), go up a cup size. If the cups wrinkle or gap, go down a cup size.
4. The Underwire
If your bra has underwire, it should sit flat against your ribcage and follow the natural crease under your breast. The wire should extend far enough to the side to fully encase your breast tissue.
If the wire sits on breast tissue (rather than the ribcage), the cup is too small. If the wire extends far past your breast tissue, the cup may be too large.
5. The Straps
Straps should stay in place without digging into your shoulders. You should be able to fit two fingers under each strap comfortably. The straps should provide about 10% of the bra's support — the band does the rest.
If straps dig in, the band may be too loose (forcing the straps to compensate). Try tightening the band before loosening the straps.
Common Fit Mistakes
Wearing a band that's too loose and cups that are too small is the most common mistake. Most women would benefit from going down a band size and up a cup size from what they currently wear.
Not scooping and swooping: after putting on your bra, lean forward and use your hand to scoop breast tissue from under your arms into the cups. This ensures all tissue is properly contained and gives you the most accurate fit.